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Being Unemployed and Homeless: March 2007

Friday, March 23, 2007

More South Island, More!

Well now folks, here we are again.

So we picked up our campervan, though we did end up waiting an extra day so that we could get the newer 'deluxe' model that comes complete with hot water, a hoover and a fan heater! Woooooohoooooo I hear you cry. Basically it's miles better than the one we had in Oz, partly cos of the above and partly because there just seems to be more room and everything is arranged better. However, after 2 weeks or so the novelty has started to wear off and it is annoying having to take everything out of the cupboard to get at the kettle etc.

So here's a quick rundown of our route around the South Island since we left Laura and Phil. First we headed to the Banks Peninsular and went to Akaroa which started as a little French settlement, it's a pretty little place but there isn't a great deal there. We then went off to Mt Cook which is amazing, the lakes around it are amazing too and huge! We did some walks around here which were cool and of course the blue sky helped. Didn't quite conquer the peak mind, but what does that matter between friends eh?

From Mt Cook we headed via Oamaru to Dunedin and the Otago Peninsular where we saw some of the rarest Penguins in the world - Yellow Eyed Penguins. Now they've put a viewing hide on the beach to watch them come ashore (which we used) but almost everyone else didn't bother and got right up close to them and scared them half to death, the 4 we saw didn't move for at least an hour because there were so many people close to them with their big long lenses on their cameras. There was some justice though, one guy who had been up close went swimming and got chased by a 400kg Hookers Sea Lion - unfortunately it didn't eat him but serves him right for getting too close to the penguins. Anyway we met a guy that runs nature tours on the beach who told everyone to move but says it happens all the time. It's a real shame as the number of penguins on the beach has fallen significantly over the last few years because of it. Anyway we ended up writing a complaint to the powers that be about it to help the nature guy out (and for our own peace of mind) but as yet have had no reply!

Moving on, we visited Dunedin a nice town, probably nicer than Christchurch I'd say which has a real Scottish feel. Didn't do much but walk around and admire the architecture and enjoy a latte (yes I've started drinking the very odd cup of coffee).

In our attempts to keep the costs down we've been trying wherever possible to stay in picnic areas or on the side of the road for free which has been working pretty well and we've only been to camp sites on every 3rd night in order to fill up our water containers and charge phones and batteries etc. So we rocked up right on the beach again at the start of the Catlins Coast which I liked and Kate didn't! It's really rugged and windy (like all of NZ!) but still it appealed to me. It also included the Southern most point of mainland NZ, Slope Point where we froze ourselves to walk to a rubbish signpost!

We then headed up to Milford Sound through Invercargill for a spot of food shopping, now we heard Mick Jagger once described Invercargill as "The arse end of the world", well we'd have to agree with him on that one (excuse the swearing Mum!). Anyway Milford Sound was something different all together, for those that don't know it's one of a series of Fiords along New Zealand's south west coast. The weather just seemed to get worse and worse as we drove in and that night was freezing (no power for the fan heater at the camp site might I add, typical!) so getting up at 7 to go on a boat at 8 didn't sound too appealing. It was worth it though, as the rain and snow (yes it was supposed to snow 700m above sea level but turned out it snowed at sea level!) meaning more waterfalls and snow capped peaks. The scenery was great although you never quite knew where the tops of the mountains were for the mist (although it did clear later on)! We stopped off at an underwater observatory (definately too cold for diving) which was interesting as the Fiords are a little different as they have fresh water floating on top of the salt water meaning things that normally only live deep down live higher up.

Leaving Milford we headed for the adrenalin capital of NZ, Queenstown. Now although we didn't do any crazy adventure sports we did like Queenstown and the views from the hills around town are superb. We then headed to Wanaka which again is a nice little town, we also attempted to go and do the Rob Roy Valley walk but abandoned that for many reasons which I won't go into here. Then we headed up to Fox Glacier for a cheeky look and a walk around Lake Matheson which wasn't reflecting for us at all, that damn wind again!

A long drive up the coast and across to Hamner Springs was next where we just chilled out in the Sulphur Hot Springs, 40 degrees was the hottest we tried and lasted in there about 2 minutes before we bolied ourselves. From Hanmer it was up past Abel Tasman and to Golden Bay to see Wharariki Beach and Farewell Spit and sandbar that extends out 35km or so into the sea. It's pretty crazy but "the nicest part of New Zealand" as it's been described I'm not so sure. Laura and Phil I have to say you didn't miss anything by not going here, Abel Tasman was much nicer in our humble opinion.

Lastly for the South Island it was over to Picton to catch the ferry to the North Island, the crossing was nice heading through the sounds and out into the Ocean, it also gave us time to read the guidebook and see where's good to go in the North!

So here we are in Wellington which seems like a nice city, though you have no idea how hard it is trying to find somewhere free to camp in a city! Don't worry we managed.

Now it may seem that with all the above it's been amazing, which it has but I must admit that we are feeling that we're starting to go through the motions a bit and yearning for home, family, friends and normality. Not to mention that the conversation has run completely dry. We're starting to hit that feeling you have after a long trip where you can't be bothered and just want to go, so what we need is several kicks up the butt from all you guys out there to give us a push across the finish line, this means many emails and texts (so they spark some conversations!). Parents please don't worry about this paragraph as you know all this already and it's been great having you to talk about it with.

Phew, I think Kate can write the next one of these I'm knackered and I've been sat here for hours. Oh, I should probably just say as usual there are 18 more piccies for you to have a look at.

Take care

Rich and Kate

Sunday, March 04, 2007

In Therapy With Friends!

Hey All,

Well what a fortnight we have had.......we've been reunited with some very good friends from home and had a fab time. It is so good to finally have chilled out beers, lots (and lots, ahem!) of wine and a darn good belly laugh with people on the same happy wave length! We have been transformed from over-travelled backpackers with negative vibes, to happy-as-hippies 20-something somethings who are extremely excited to see the rest of this beautiful country. All without a prescription for anti-depressants or winning the lottery! Wow!

So, without further ado.....check out the photos, there are 18 of them this time, cos we just couldn't decide which ones were best. We did take 429 over the last 2 weeks, so sigh your sigh of relief and have a little butchers.

We started off with a couple of days in Christchurch where Laura and Phil started to get over their chest infection and tonsillitis respectively and the 31 hour-straight flight jointly. Then having collected the hire car we drove the long old journey to Franz Josef Glacier on the West Coast. We took the option of the 3/4 day walk onto the glacier which was amazing. The weather was pretty grim, but we didn't get rained on until we were nearing the middle of the walk and it didn't last long. It was particularly surreal for Rich and I to be wrapped up in raincoats, rain-trousers, huge boots, hats and gloves. I think Laura and Phil thought they'd left the British weather behind at this point! Ooops! The walk was great, yet pretty tiring and of course we treated ourselves to a great meal out afterwards and the start of the wine drinking.

We then headed up to Abel Tasman National Park and had a stop for Pancake Rocks on the way, with the majority of the other holidayers in NZ! L & P had their first look at the perfect turquoise ocean, whilst Rich and I remembered that we haven't always been so used to such stunning scenery! From here, Rich managed to speak with the majority of his mates from home who were out on Kennedy's stag do, the sedate part....! Now we can safely say that was an amusing conversation to ear-ole into! As if you could have missed it. And it is also safe to say that Rich has indeed assumed many Australianisms and will need this beating out of him on return to Blighty! Any offers on that one?! In Motueka, Abel Tasman, we were told to expect rain by the excited locals who had had nothing but glorious sunshine for ten days and were ready for some rain. Fantastic, three days in kayaks loomed ahead. Still, the next day we sat on the beach for a lazy one and even managed a swim in the chilly old ocean. Of course, the weather forcasters were pretty wrong and for the next three days the sun shone it's hardest. We only had one night where the rain won, which luckily enough fell on the same night that the Russian/Czech/unknown nationality people decided to have their huge drinking session and keep the entire campsite angry and awake. Nice. I can't begin to describe the scenery in the park and the sea even managed to impress Rich and I. The seals were just everywhere and so close to us too. None of them chose to free-wheel on our kayaks, but we were not going to complain. We even saw lots of rays swimming around us too. The food and wine were all provided, tasted great and we didn't even have to cook or wash up. How plush!

Next stop was Renwick in the Marlborough wine region. We stayed at Watsons Way backpackers, which was lovely apart from the fact that everything was truly Watsons Way or the highway! I have never had my washing locked up from me before, but that's Watsons Way! Just ask Phil about the Safari Bath and I am sure his jaw will still drop at the price for a bath in a tent! "What no elephants?!" Anyway, to make matters worse we hired our bikes and pedalled off for a trip to the wineries. We managed five in total before wobbling our way home and even got two bottles of wine home intact. I could have sworn they'd end up smashed in a rucksack when someone wobbled a bit too far to the left! Still, they were drunk that night and did indeed taste great with chips, dips and a BBQ. And we discovered lots of things about our friends during many conversations!

We swiftly headed over to Kaikoura and stayed in yet another lovely but anal backpackers. Has anyone seen the stolen nectarine and if so will you please replace it? Give us all some peace. And no, we still don't know who was sick on the stairs (it wasn't even that kind of backpackers) but it certainly wasn't us so please refrain from eyeballing us in that way. Lovely garden though, and we spent the afternoon just chilling out with a couple of beers and the wandering ducks. Again, much more information was gleemed, but as any traveller knows, what goes on tour stays on tour! That night Laura fretted about her impending dolphin swim but the next day did well with a snorkel and a fetching wetsuit complete with hood! Phil assumed official photographer, but has yet to refine his skills.....mmmmm what a lovely splash of a dolphin and how nice Lauras forehead is! The sarcasm goes on and the last word is here! Ok! Rich and I went on a whale watching tour and got very close to the local Sperm Whales. That night we went out for the finale meal and what a bill it was!! Seafood restaurant....how could you not? I managed to persuade Rich to not order steak but failed to get him to have fish for a starter. It was so great and we stayed so long that we practically got kicked out of the restaurant! They clearly go to bed early in Kaikoura! We took a lazy walk the next day around Kaikoura Peninsular which raised our thoughts of the place. The scenery is, still, stunning!

We left Laura and Phil there while we returned to Christchurch. Of course we felt sad to leave them, but were determined not to have a week of homesickness that we had when our parents left. It would have been so easy to cry cry cry, but we only have six weeks left of travelling before we'll be back to Blighty, so we must make the most of it. We had a fab time and truly it was therapy with friends that we have totally missed while we've been away. Totally looking forward to more of that very soon!

We collect our campervan for the finale roadtrip on Tuesday and will be taking a closer look at this beautiful country for the next 5 weeks before flying out of Auckland for Hong Kong. So guys, be warned we'll be knocking on your doors for a bed very very soon!!!

Take care and hope all is well back home

Love

Kate and Rich xx